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All acne starts out as a clogged pore. Skin normally sheds its dead cells, but the process isn't perfect: Leftover dead skin cells can mix with excess surface oil and block pores, trapping the cells, sebum (the oily substance that keeps skin lubricated) and bacteria inside. The result is inflammation--and red bumps and lumps.
Why acne strikes some but not others isn't well understood. Faulty skin-cell turnover in pores may play a role. Stress also may be a factor because it boosts hormones that stimulate oil production--a theory backed by Stanford University School of Medicine research, which found that students had worse acne during exam periods, when they were more stressed. But one thing is certain: No matter what degree of acne you have--from mild to severe--you need to break the oil-bacteria-inflammation cycle to get clear skin. Here's how.
MILD ACNE
You have it if you notice only a few whiteheads/blackheads and occasional dome-shaped red bumps.
Clear-skin strategy As with any acne condition, treatment (and prevention) begins with regular exfoliation, says New York City dermatologist Debra Jaliman, M.D. In the morning: Wash with a gentle cleanser like Neutrogena Rapid Clear Oil-Control Foaming Cleanser ($6.49; at drugstores). Then swipe affected skin with a salicylic-acid-based toner or pad. (Try Aveeno Clear Complexion Astringent, $7, or Stri-Dex Triple Action Medicated Pads, $3.49-$6; both at drugstores.) At night: Wash with the same gentle cleanser and follow with a 5 percent benzoyl peroxide treatment to kill bacteria. Try Oxy Balance Acne Treatment for Sensitive Skin ($5; at drugstores).
Extra help A serum or moisturizer can blot surface oil (less oil means less bacteria). Clearasil Total Control All-Day Mattifying Moisturizer SPF 10 ($8; at drugstores) is a good choice. Or look for the new Blackhead Eliminating product line from Neutrogena ($6.49 each; at drugstores).
MODERATE ACNE
You have it if, in addition to black- and whiteheads, you have more frequent dome-shaped bumps.